Marine Serre’s Fall-Winter 2025 presentation at La Monnaie de Paris was more than just a fashion show—it was a statement. Set against the backdrop of the oldest French institution, the collection played with the ideas of illusion, symbolism, and heritage, while challenging the financial structures that dominate the industry. In a world ruled by commerce, Serre reclaims value, offering her guests a symbolic coin stamped with the moon and her own profile—a talisman rather than a transactional object, a nod to the revolutionary spirit of the French Marianne.

At the age of 30, and with seven years of independent craftsmanship behind her, Marine Serre asserts a new level of maturity in this collection. Her forty-seven looks embody an evolved silhouette—structured yet sensual, powerful yet fluid. References to 1950s and 1980s femme fatales underscore a celebration of femininity in all its complexities.

Reimagining Icons

The opening look—Serre’s signature catsuit—draws from the legacy of Irma Vep, one of cinema’s first modern heroines. The moon-tattooed leather, sculpting the body with precision, serves as a second skin, transforming fashion into a language of movement and mystery. Elsewhere, a midi leather dress with sharp futuristic shoulders captures the delicate tension between power and desire. Upcycled biker leather finds new life in structured couture, blending speed, adrenaline, and high fashion.

Serre extends her vision beyond garments with key accessories. The AURORA bag reinterprets vintage elegance with a modern edge, while the MS CRUSH heels—crafted as a second skin in pump and stretch leather boot variations—reinforce the collection’s bold energy. Jewelry, including the HEADS OR TAILS capsule, turns forgotten objects into artifacts of power, offering a sautoir necklace, a short necklace, and earrings inspired by the collection’s symbolic coin.

Eco-Futurism Meets Couture

Serre’s commitment to sustainability remains unwavering. She reclaims and reinvents forgotten materials—coins, antique watches, and dormant furs—transforming them into ten couture pieces that question notions of value and time. In La Monnaie de Paris, where currency has long been produced, she challenges the relationship between money and worth, stripping objects of their commercial function and reassigning them an ornamental one.

A striking juxtaposition unfolds throughout the collection: white transitioning into deep black, with a dominant red pulsating in between. The fiery hue channels power and passion, appearing in a carmine velvet tracksuit that redefines red carpet dressing, as well as in mesh and satin ensembles that further explore the tension between control and desire. David Lynch’s surreal world serves as a key influence, with nods to Twin Peaks and its infamous Red Room—a place where time warps and logic bends. Just as Lynch blurs the line between reality and illusion, Serre constructs garments that distort perception, inviting wearers to embody new characters in a dreamlike realm.

Challenging Perception

Trompe-l’oeil techniques play a vital role in this season’s storytelling. Serre manipulates textures and fabrics to deceive the eye, as lingerie prints mimic delicate lace and encapsulated nightdresses create an illusion of layering. A monumental puffer jacket pays tribute to the legendary André Leon Talley, its voluminous structure recalling the grandeur of Chesterfield furniture. Meanwhile, recycled nylon takes on the appearance of leather, further challenging the boundaries between materiality and perception.

In this collection, traditional garments are deconstructed and reimagined. The trench coat—an archetype of classic fashion—is rebuilt as a modular, layered piece, while puffer jackets incorporate its codes to elevate functionality into high fashion. Serre does not use illusion as a means of disguise but as a way of revelation, urging her audience to question what is real and what is imagined.

A Soundtrack to Transformation

Music plays a defining role in this immersive experience. Para One crafts a hypnotic score that evolves from an entrancing opener to a cinematic crescendo, paying tribute to the late Angelo Badalamenti. The finale is a moment of collective emotion, reinforcing the show’s spiritual resonance—a signature element of Marine Serre’s presentations.

A New Chapter

With this collection, Marine Serre reaches a new artistic and philosophical pinnacle. Her ability to balance radicality with structure, grace with defiance, transforms each piece into a statement on power, illusion, and self-expression. Fall-Winter 2025 is not just about fashion—it’s about seeing beyond the tangible, questioning the narratives we accept, and embracing uncertainty with audacity.

Key Accessories of the Season:

-AURORA BAG – A fusion of vintage sophistication and modern functionality.

-MS CRUSH Heels & Boots – Serre’s signature second-skin silhouette, reimagined in statement footwear.

-HEADS OR TAILS Jewelry Capsule – A symbolic collection featuring gold-engraved coins, available for immediate purchase.

Credits:

Styling: Benoit Béthume

Casting Director: William Lhoest

Music: Para One

Film: Tess Lochanski

Production: Iconoclast

Lookbook: Arnel Ian Dela Gente

Movement Director: Ryan Chappell

Hair: Ali Pirzadeh

Make Up: Janeen Witherspoon (Make Up For Ever)

Nails: Anais Cordevant

Production: Spotlite

Marine Serre extends her gratitude to Make Up For Ever, Bumble and Bumble, The Manucurist, Orphy, and La Monnaie de Paris.