Stuart Vevers transforms The Wizard of Oz into a cinematic runway moment rooted in youth culture A Cinematic Opening in Black and White Although the recent wave of Wicked releases may have quieted, the world of Oz continues to cast its spell on pop culture. On Wednesday in New York City, Stuart Vevers tapped directly into that legacy for Coach’s Fall 2026 show, delivering a collection that felt both nostalgic and sharply in tune with the present. Fresh off a Christmas rewatch of The Wizard of Oz with his children, Vevers found himself inspired by what he described as seeing the joy in their faces when it transitioned from black and white into that explosion of Ozian color. That cinematic shift became the emotional and visual backbone of the collection. Set inside a dimly lit venue with soaring ceilings nearly 70 feet high, the show unfolded like a film premiere. The opening look appeared entirely in shades of gray, stepping into a stark white spotlight that cut through the darkness with theatrical precision. The moment felt intentional and dramatic, echoing the grandeur of classic Hollywood.

From Monochrome to Ozian Color

The first chapter remained in grayscale, featuring leather jackets layered beneath plaid blazers and prairie dresses reminiscent of Miss Gulch, complete with torn lace hems. Knee length dark denim shorts added a grounded, slightly rebellious tone. The mood was restrained yet textured, building anticipation for what would come next. Gradually, color began to emerge. Powder blue suede varsity jackets and violet leather zip ups broke through the monochrome palette. Then came the unmistakable ruby red sneakers, fastened together with a bold metal hook and eye closure. Like Dorothy stepping into Oz, the runway shifted from muted realism into vibrant fantasy.

An American Mix of Oz and Skate Culture

Yet Oz was only part of the story. Woven throughout the collection was an unexpected but seamless influence: skate culture. When asked about blending the two worlds, Vevers explained that it felt inherently American. His long standing fascination with youth culture shaped the collection’s direction, whether referencing the present or decades past. The result was a lineup that felt authentic and lived in. Each model embodied the elevated cool of a stylish New York City student heading home from class. Garments appeared intentionally distressed, with ripped seams on jorts, worn leather, and thick scrunched socks with visible holes styled into every look. The scuffed, imperfect finish suggested skatepark scrapes and city sidewalks rather than polished perfection.

Listening to the Next Generation

For Vevers, the key lies in connection. He emphasized the importance of listening to the next generation and responding to how people are feeling in the moment. Rather than overthinking the process, he leans into instinct and empathy. With Fall 2026, Coach did more than reference a beloved film. It captured the magic of transformation itself, moving from shadow to color, from nostalgia to now, and from fantasy to the raw energy of youth culture in motion.